For a start it's rather large, rather plush and the food here plays a big part in proceedings – in fact it probably has greater emphasis than the drink.

That's because this reinvention of what used to be Fat Franco's restaurant, which was once very popular in this rather leafy suburb, is targeting a specific market.

It's part of the arc inspirations group which, to give you an idea of the cut of their jib, owns Arc, Trios and The Box in Headingley as well as Zed and The Hub in Chapel Allerton.

But the group has also evolved somewhat recently catering less for the student/youth sector and steering more towards the youth/young professional punter.

They successfully pulled off this trick last year with the Napa bar in Roundhay where locals tend to ring 999 if they get so much as a musty whiff of student and all the local bright young things still think the Flying Pizza is a cool hang out.

And they did it by doing exactly what they've done with Kobe, except if Napa was the prototype this is the realisation of The Dream. Small wonder they've (allegedly) thrown a whopping seven figure sum at creating this place.

You need to know what it looked like in its former life (cold, featureless, perfunctory) to understand where they've spent a million quid. It looks, almost, like every penny.

Ok, it's still a little bit too plush. A few too many plasma screens dotted around and bit too much in the way of veneered wood surfaces.

But it's still very warm, inviting and comforting – an achievement in itself.

Not that that matters quite as much as the menu itself. At first glance the signs aren't good since it arrives in the form of a single A3 sheet of laminate which means the contents are unlikely to be altered very often, if at all.

But when you actually peruse the choices it's rather impressive.

There's a separate 'brunch' section with eggs benedict, florentine, smoked salmon scrambled eggs or smoked bacon American pancakes as well as pasta, salads and deli sandwiches.

But their speciality is burgers including (like their sister bar Napa) the dish which the bar is named after – the Kobe burger, made from the beef of the pampered Wagyu cattle in Japan.

Aside from this burger, there are are a number of imaginative options like the goat's cheese, spinach and butternut squash burger enjoyed by my dining partner for her main, or the roast vegetable and brie number.

For my starter I went for the mussel pot, a steaming extravaganza of Scottish mussels served in a sauce made from Chardonnay, spring onion, lemon and cream with focaccia bread, and my dining partner had the wild mushroom soup - both triumphs, as good as anything you'll taste in a bistro or a supposed place of gastronomic excellence.

My main – a char-grilled chicken with braised turmeric potatoes, rocket and beetroot dressing – was great too.

Desserts were a perfect vanilla cheesecake and dark chocolate truffle with ice cream, both extremely tasty without leaving you cloying.

But there are so many other unusual options here. The Chateaubriand steak for two people at a reasonable £38 or the char-grilled polenta, the Teriyaki salmon or the herb-crusted field mushroom salad.And the drinks options are just as plentiful. I had a consummate mojito while my dining partner had the mojitNO, which contains no alcohol (do you see?)

With a few drinks and three courses including coffee it came to around £25 a head.

Very reasonable, we thought. Not dirt cheap but then you'd be happy paying much more elsewhere for the same quality of food, plus the service was great and, atmosphere-wise, Kobe is both chilled and buzzing.

You could bring anyone here – a date, your mum, your kids, your mates – and they'd enjoy it. While the ambience is pitched towards the young professional it's neutral enough not to put anyone off.

Sure it's very much a 'concept bar' but they haven't just pulled it off they've taken the concept and run with it, and it's a runaway success as a result of that conviction.

And fittingly enough for somewhere that's named after a burger the food here delivers the beef, and much more.