Travel review: Culture, craft beers and celestial bars? It's all possible on a weekend break in Leeds

“All t’fatties out!” shouts a joker in the crammed hotel lift. We’re headed for the Sky Lounge on the 13th floor of the DoubleTree By Hilton Hotel, a rooftop terrace bar which has been enthusiastically adopted by the locals. But we’re over the weight limit and the lift is refusing to budge.

Leeds is the UK’s fastest-growing city, driven by financial services and the business sector. And with economic renewal has come cultural vitality - the Lonely Planet Guide named Leeds as one of the 10 best visitor destinations in Europe for 2017.

Boasting a world-class museum (the Royal Armouries), internationally renowned opera and ballet companies, restaurants at the cutting edge of foodie culture and a clutch of sophisticated shopping arcades, the northern city’s transformation is breathtaking.

Dour decades of industrial grime have been scraped away, and what’s left is a confident, entrepreneurial metropolis which, just as in its Victorian heyday, embraces the glitz and glamour of prosperity.

But down-to-earth Leeds folk haven’t changed at all. So whatever your budget, the city adds up to an exceptional - and at times hilarious - travel experience.

Where to stay

Stepping into the DoubleTree by Hilton (doubletree3.hilton.com) is a dramatic, almost Harry Potterish experience: Descend from the bridge above Platform 17 at Leeds Railway Station into the Dark Arches (brick tunnels built in Victorian times to carry the tumbling waters of the River Aire), then emerge into a blaze of daylight by the Leeds And Liverpool Canal.

Enjoying the facilities one would expect of a member of the Hilton chain (42in TV, complimentary wifi, well-designed rooms), the canal-side location on Granary Wharf offers soothing views of narrowboats chugging gently along the waterway.

On the ground floor, the all-day Lock Kitchen & Bar has a chilled vibe; you can while away hours people-watching on the heated terrace by the towpath. The fashionable Sky Lounge roof terrace gets busy at weekends, so a good way to enjoy the panoramic views in tranquility is by taking advantage of the weekend brunch option (£17.50) or a full-blown afternoon tea (£19.95). From £73 per night room only.

A budget option is Art Hostel (arthostel.org.uk) in Kirkgate. Managed by East Street Arts as a social enterprise, each room has been individually designed using recycled materials. A private twin room (bed only) costs £55, while a bunk in a 10-bed mixed dorm is £22.50. There are cooking facilities on site and you can pick up fresh ingredients at Kirkgate Market, just moments away. Drop by to say hello and pick up the very useful Art Hostel Free Guide to Leeds’ independent scene.

What to do

The Royal Armouries (royalarmouries.org) is the national collection of arms and armour, much of it previously stored in the Tower Of London, and essentially a shrine to the ways people can kill each other. Horrible? Yes. But the collection is also about innovation, technology and superb craftmenship.

You can ponder the sad role of conflict in the world - or you can ogle the size of Henry VIII’s codpiece. It’s enormous. And there’s a war elephant. Pick up the free water taxi near the DoubleTree by Hilton and enjoy a 20-minute cruise along the River Aire to the steps of the waterside museum. Entrance is free.

Recently reopened following refurbishment, Leeds Art Gallery (leeds.gov.uk/artgallery) on The Headrow is overshadowed, architecturally, by Cuthbert Brodrick’s splendid 1850s Leeds Town Hall next door. The Gallery’s treasures lie within - built in 1886-8 by public subscription, the stunning Victorian glazed roof was rediscovered by builders after it was boxed in during the 1970s.

Explore the work of British watercolourist John Sell Cotman, or catch a major retrospective of the sculptures and drawings of Joseph Beuys (both exhibitions are on until January 21). The Tiled Hall Cafe, with magnificent marble columns and a mosaic ceiling, is a work of art in itself. Entrance is free.

Where to shop

The Grand Arcade is, ironically, the least grand of Leeds’ many covered shopping streets. These range from Thornton’s Arcade (opened in 1878 and home today to quirky independent retailers, such as OK Comics) to the much newer Victoria Gate, anchored by one of the largest John Lewis stores in the UK.